Millesimo

The Church of Santa Maria Extra Muros

The church of Santa Maria Extra Muros (Santa Maria outside the walls) in Millesimo, originally dedicated to Saint Peter and enlarged in the 15th century, was a center of popular devotion. The late Gothic and Renaissance frescoes adorning the church's interior testify to the religious fervor of this community. The presence of works by the Maestro di Cosseria, a local figure of note, adds further value to the church's rich cultural context.

Between Saliceto and Cosseria, on the border between Liguria and Piedmont, along the ancient roads that connected the Ligurian coast to the main Piedmontese cities, lies the town of Millesimo.

Its strategic geographical location was one of the reasons that prompted Marquis Enrico II del Carretto to found the “new city” of Millesimo in 1206, simultaneously designating it as the capital of his estates and promoting the construction of the Cistercian monastery of Santo Stefano, located at the entrance to the settlement. Today, the monastery, transformed into a private residence, preserves a 14th-century fresco, typical of Ligurian painting, depicting the Madonna and Child with Saint Stephen and five devotees, likely members of the marquis’ family.

The Church of Santa Maria Extra Muros

The church of Santa Maria Extra Muros owes its name to its location outside the walls of the medieval village of Millesimo, along the Bormida River. The Romanesque façade, characterized by four imposing pilasters, was harmoniously reinforced by imposing buttresses during subsequent expansion works. Evidence of the Gothic style is the bell tower, erected after the 14th century, featuring five tiers and topped by a spire. Originally, the church of Santa Maria overlapped with the early medieval parish church of San Pietro, already mentioned in an Ottonian diploma from the late 9th century. Archaeological excavations have determined that its size was no longer sufficient to accommodate the growing community, and so it was equipped with two side naves, built in several stages, reaching its current dimensions in the 15th century, along with a change of name to Santa Maria.

Its isolated location and its transformation from a parish church to a cemetery contributed to its abandonment: the cemetery area, active until the early decades of the twentieth century, in violation of the law in force at the time, gradually invaded the church, completely covering the floor with gravestones. Twentieth-century historical photographs show a low balustrade dividing the interior space, distinguishing the cemetery chapel from the burial area.

The church is notably distinguished by a series of private devotions that, from the second half of the fifteenth century to the first decades of the following century, testify to the religious fervor of the inhabitants of Millesimo towards their first parish church and their identification with it. One can imagine that the walls were completely adorned with these displays of devotion, so much so that it has been described as a “consumption of devotions,” almost as if the devotion of the faithful themselves had consumed the church’s walls.

The pictorial embellishment is most evident on the left apse wall, where an elegant female figure in monastic robes emerges from the ochre background: it is Saint Martha, depicted here as a female Saint George, intent on taming a dragon held by a chain. Next to it is the Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian, depicted in a now fully Renaissance manner, as the torturers shoot arrows at the Saint, who, in accordance with hagiographic tradition, is tied to a tree.

This is followed by a series of other votive figures, created in the following decades, which demonstrate an attempt to adhere to Renaissance canons. This is evident in the first chapel on the left, where, within the arch, the Prophets of the Church are depicted half-length, set in a spatially studied tribune with a harmonious choice of colors.

The pillars dividing the three naves and the presbytery are covered with votive offerings from individual patrons, who dedicate a special thanksgiving or request to the chosen saint. The venerable saints are identified by their traditional robes and attributes and are identified as (starting from the presbytery and moving clockwise): Saint Francis, Saint Anthony the Abbot, Saint James, Saint George, Saint Nicholas of Tolentino, Saint John the Baptist, and Saint Roch facing Christ emerging from the tomb. These panels were executed by a series of different painters, active in a relatively close period, making the building a hub of artistic exchange and communication.

The cultural context

At the entrance to the church of Santa Maria extra muros, on the wall of the left nave, are two fresco sections depicting the Madonna enthroned with the Child and a Pietà, removed from a noble residence located in the center of Millesimo (in Piazza Italia). This episode is included in the catalogue of the well-known Maestro di Cosseria, an anonymous painter who operated with his workshop in the surrounding area by the end of the second decade of the 16th century. He is identifiable by his compositional solutions, his selection of garments and textile finishes, and his decorative elements.

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